化妆阴影怎么画 彩妆小技巧

明星化妆师Katey Denno的阴影美妆

小技巧&

西方赚钱最多的美妆博主大盘点

Celebrity Make up Artist, Katey Denno give us Tips on Contouring

and

5 Western Beauty Bloggers with the Biggest Paychecks

不知不觉间，博主和CAA、Next、IMG这样的明星经纪公司开始了密切地合作。

很多西方品牌在美妆博主/主播身上大下血本，每年平均投资近40万美金。

YouTube上几乎95%的美妆内容出于内容创作者（2015），这样一来，视频博主的地位愈发巩固且占据大量市场份额（全球范围来看），对于那些不认为博客能够影响销量的人来说，看到那些拥有千万粉丝阵容、每月至少赚得4万美金的美妆博主的时候，是不是该反思一下呢？！

AD AGE盘点了以下挣钱最多的美妆视频博主：
Its not for any reason that bloggers have started working closely with Blogging and even celeb agencies such as CAA, Next, and IMG.
Going into big bucks for the happy few, western brands are starting to dig out their deep pockets going up to 400 K USD/ year ( on average) to invest in beauty bloggers/vloggers.
With almost 95% of youtube’s beauty content being created by content creators (2015), vloggers behold a more powerful position and commercial stake every year ( a trend happening on a global level). For some who believe vlogging will not impact sales, they can think twice when seeing some of the highest payed beauty bloggers working their social media magic pushes their + 10 million fanbase and reching over 40K USD/Month as base salary.

According to AD AGE’s report, the top highest payed beauty vloggers for 2015/16 are the following:1. Yuya (lady16makeup)她是靠录制视频赚得最多的美妆博主，每月进账约4.1万美金，拥有1,200万粉丝。Shes the highest payed beauty blogging reaching approx. 41K USD/ Month with +12 Million followers

2. Bunny Meyer (grav3yardgirl)Bunny拥有约650万关注用户，她以搞怪逗趣的妆容和大胆的美妆尝鲜吸引粉丝（比如：用棉花糖和奇多薯条卷头发），月入3.2万美金。Bunny reaches out to approximately 6.5 million subscribers with her eccentric and playful makeup looks and crazy beauty trials ( such as curling your hair with marshmallows and cheetto chips) , she earns around 32K Month.

3. ZoellaZoella最近开通了自己的美妆频道——Zoella，会推出一些美妆技巧并推荐一些亲测产品。她拥有超过900万关注用户，每月收入约2.7万美金。Zoella recently launched her own beauty line and is more on the technical and very up close personal side of product recommendations. She has over 9 million subscribers and earns approximately 27K USD per month.

eauty101运营Rclbeauty101的Rachel拥有550万关注用户，她可能是最接地气的视频主播之一，她常分享一些美妆救急技巧和快速上妆技巧，每月收入约2万美金。Rachel of Rclbeauty101 has 5.5 million subscribers and is probably the most relatable vlogger, showcasing survival tips for beauty and fast easy DIY on the go tips. She makes over $20,000 a month.

5. Bethany MotaBethany Mota是一名获得高度认可的美发主播。尽管Ad Age称她的月收入约1.5万美金，但她其实还有别的吸金途径，如：代言Aeropostale、参加《与星共舞》等。Bethany Mota is a beauty hair style blogger with high recognition amongst teens/tweens. Although Ad Age states she contributed to only approx. 15K USD on her monthly income, she is also cashing on other projects such as being the ambassador for Aeropostale and appearing on shows such as Dancing with the Stars.

6. Michelle Phan据业内人士称Michelle Phan开创了美妆视频的先河，是她引领了主播的潮流。在她成立了主推化妆品订阅服务、市值5亿美金的Ipsy公司后，YouTube视频直播便不再是Phan的主要收入来源。据《福布斯》杂志推算，她的年收入至少达300万美金。2015年，Phan还入选了《福布斯》杂志评选的30岁以下的30位精英榜，常年获得青少年选择奖的最佳互联网时尚/美容明星提名。Professionals say that Michelle Phan is the pioneer of beauty bloggers, the one who really kick started the trend. Phans Youtub Vlogging projects are no longer her main source of income reaching 15K USD/Month , as she started her beauty sampling subscript ion service Ipsy which was recently valued at $500 million. Forbes calculated that she makes at least $3 million a year. In 2015, Phan was named on the Forbes 30 under 30 lists and is often nominated at Teen Choice awards for Web Star in Fashion and Beauty.

我认为Michelle的成功离不开她的决心和先前努力，也取决于她那张中西合璧的脸型，使得千千万万的亚洲姑娘找到了适合亚裔妆容的突破口，不再局限于西方美妆博主。（东西方面部特征的差异太大）。在北京的那段时间，我们有幸同明星化妆师Katey Denno一起畅聊她的阴影妆容之道，通过视觉科学和美妆错觉打造理想的“3D”效果。

I think that not only Michelle’s determination and previous hardships lead her to be successful but also the fact that she has this chameleon like face shape of western and Asian traits where she was able to give advice to the millions of Asian girls who find it hard to look up to western beauty bloggers for advice ( just because the dimensions and propositions of the facial features are so different).

During our time in BJ we also chat with Celeb Stylist Katey Denno and her take on contouring in order to create that desired “ 3d” effect through visual science and optical illusions with makeup.

Katey Denno的阴影美妆小技巧Katey Denno’s Quick Tips on Contouring

“我很喜欢在脸部特定区域打上高光，首先就是鼻梁部位。根据个人肤质以及底妆种类，你可以灵活选择高光粉或高光霜打造阴影美妆。”“One of the things I love to do is start off by putting highlighter in certain areas, highlighting first down the nose. For contouring, you can use either powder andorcream, it really depends on your skin

texture and what you already have on." Denno says.

如果你是油性肌肤，尽量避免使用高光粉，我会以高光霜为主，最后刷少量高光粉来增强效果。倘若你不是干性肤质，轻盈型高光霜便是个不错的选择。我们常常会以欧美标准来衡量妆感，尝试着如法炮制到亚洲面孔上，这一点很不科学，不同的脸型应该搭配不同的画法。“Instead of using powder for your skin as its already very luminous, I would use cream instead for your contour and finish with some hints of powder only to highlight. Also given that your skin is not dry light cream is a nice choice. We're often looking as Western standards for contouring and trying to apply them to the Asian figure, which really doesn’t make sense; it should be based on the face shape and type”.

Katey在我的颧骨处轻轻地打上金色高光，接着在距离鼻侧外两指之宽的部位打造出自然的腮红妆效。“首先面带微笑，记得重点是颧骨凸出部位的中心，再逐渐晕染开，你永远不想把腮红画在距鼻侧两指之宽内的位置，这样很容易和鼻子上的妆容晕到一起。”接下来，她为我深化眉色，使其成为深棕色/黑色，并在眉尾处稍作延长以修饰脸型。最后用植村秀睫毛夹营造卷翘睫毛，“每个人的画法都不一样”她眨了眨眼睛。She then covers a subtle golden highlight close to the cheek bones and covers two fingers beside the side of my nose for natural blush effect, “first smile and always start with the middle center of the highest part of your cheek bones and then blend it out, you never want to put blush closer than your two fingers as it will blend into the nose in a mashed up way.” she says as she then darkens the eyebrows to an almost dark brown/black look creating a slightly longer tail to frame the face. For the last touch she finished with the iconic eyelash curler from Shu Uemura , “they are not all the same” she winks.

“适量打造高光和阴影，有助于重塑面部轮廓，对于西方人来说，打造柔和的光影轮廓很重要，使得棱角不会过于分明。我很高兴这一美妆技巧能够风靡起来，不再是我们后台拍摄写真的专属” Katey Denno说。“The right amount of contouring and shading can really change peoples face, for western faces, its important to create a lighter contouring so it does not look to heavy. I’m really happy that this beauty trend has gotten out to the mass instead of us only using it backstage for photoshoots for the models face and body.” says Denno.

如今转战洛杉矶的她曾为很多明星大咖塑造妆容，如：Jessica Beil, Candace Swanpoel, Gwyneth Paltrow, Susan Sarandon, Amber Heard, Amanda Seyfried, Vanessa Hudgens, Mindy（《明迪烦事多》）, Cobie Smulders, Jaime Kingand, Julianne Moore等。

Recently transferring to LA, Denno has worked closely with entertainment A-List celebs such as Jessica Biel, Candace Swanepoel, Gwyneth Paltrow, Susan Sarandon, Amber Heard, Amanda Seyfried, Vanessa Hudgens, Mindy (The Mindy Project), Cobie Smulders, Julianne Moore, Jaime Kingand, and more.

Katey Denno’s Celebrity Clients

阴影美妆女皇Contouring Queens

Kim Karda

shian有着吹弹可破的肌肤、高耸的颧骨，毋庸置疑，她就是阴影美妆的女皇，今年夏天她却对美版Elle正式声明自己玩腻了阴影美妆<除了鼻子部位>，想要尝试一些自然妆感，咱们就拭目以待吧！Kim Kardashian, with her ever-glistening skin and permanently chiseled sky high cheekbones, is the unchallenged queen of contouring where she officially stated this summer to Elle US that she is totally over contouring, lets see about that in a couple of months and desires to go a bit more a GLAM-MA

“新晋魅力女神爆红网络”Comsopolitan评，居住在敬老院的80岁高龄奶奶Livia Glam-Ma近来备受关注，主流媒体争相报道她的阴影美妆，视其为高光红人，涂上亮色唇彩的她看起来就像是个专业化妆师，更别提她能顺应时尚步调，紧跟社交“instagrammer”的潮流。“The latest beauty queen breaking the internet” says Comsopolitan, 80 year old, Livia Glam-Ma lives in a nursing home and has been seeked by key media for her countering looks, seeing as her highlighter pops like there's no tomorrow and she rocks a bright lip like a total pro, needless to say shes in tune with the trends as well as being a social media “instagrammer” phenomenon.

弄巧成拙的阴影美妆Contouring Gone Wrong

当然凡事都有个度，过犹不及从来都不是件好事……除非你想以“变装皇后”的身份登场。（那我是完全没有意见！）Of course, like anything in the world, abusing and overdoing is never a good thing…ss you want to go on stage for a drag queen show (which is really totally cool by me if thats the look your going for)

化浓妆前一定要记得使用洁面霜之类的产品做好皮肤清洁工作，祛除面部多余的油脂和角质，还原清爽的脸部肌肤。

酷暑当头，保持皮肤水润柔软的同时也要避免太过油腻。类似于Nerium抗衰老面霜（日/晚霜）一类的护肤品虽然味道不尽如意人，但镇静肌肤、清爽润滑的效果却是杠杠的。它家的眼霜十分厚重，你只需在眼部轮廓周围轻摸一点即可。

It's important that before your start all this heavy contouring makeup to use cleansing products and creams to get rid of any excess makeup, oil, dirt on your face to start with a clean canvas for your face.

In the midst of summer heat, keep your skin moisturized and soft while avoiding it to be too oily. Products like Nerium Age Defying Creams (day/night) dont have the best smell but they give off a smooth non oily finish that really firms the skin at the same time. Its eye serum is extremely thick and should only be used slightly around the contours of the eye.

如果你的肌肤瑕疵较多，理肤泉的洁面套装也是个不错的选择。我亲自尝试过，它能有效清洁毛孔。我个人最喜欢的三款分别是温和收敛喷雾（蓝瓶）、温泉舒缓喷液和痘痘清乳液，针对中性偏油性肌肤的人，这几款可谓黄金选择。

If your skin has more some more in depth imperfections, La Roche Posay’s purifying treatment kit is a good alternative. I’ve tried it myself where it really cleans your pores. My favourite three fave products were the SEROZIN sulfate soothing spray ( blue bottle) , thermal refreshing spring water, and the EFFACLAR K (+1) which is really great for medium to oily skin.